Top restaurateurs talk ‘going corporate’ in the ever-changing culinary landscape
Almost 10 years ago, Cactus Club Cafe made an announcement that sent shockwaves across the food world. Rob Feenie, then one of the country’s brightest culinary stars , would be going to work for the Vancouver-based “casual fine dining” chain. The move was calculated on both sides – at the time, Feenie was looking for a stable place to land after walking away from his two restaurants, the result of an acrimonious split with his former business partners. And Cactus Club could cash in on the cachet and street cred a name such as Feenie’s carried at a time when the power of food culture and food television (of which Feenie had been a star) was becoming fully realized. Still, the reaction was swift. “Yikes, Feenie really sold out on this one,” one commenter on the the foodie forum eGullet said at the time. “The power of the dollar!” That announcement was just the start. In the near-decade since, many of the best restaurants across Canada have seen their top talent leave for jobs at c...